敬老 KEIRŌ: Made With Love
45 Years of the Ikoi no Kai Lunch Program
The Ikoi no Kai lunch program has served Nikkei Seniors since 1979. Located in the basement of Epworth United Methodist Church, it serves nutritious Japanese home-style lunches four days a week. While many associate Ikoi no Kai with delicious food, the program is much more than that. It is a community created around the meal. The preparations and activities surrounding the lunch service are just as important as the meal itself.
Dining at Ikoi no Kai is a unique experience: the communal tables, the sharing of stories, and the contributions of volunteers and diners. The spirit of Ikoi no Kai’s hospitality is rooted in Japanese cultural values, but distinctly American in its friendly casual familiarity. Ikoi no Kai promotes Japanese culture, nourishment, tolerance and inclusivity through food– values that continue to be important to a community that had been denied many of these things during WWII.
Ikoi no Kai has evolved over the years from a government-funded senior food program to an independent nonprofit organization. Ikoi no Kai’s ongoing success comes from the hard work, resilience and dedication of the community. It continues to be an important gathering place for the Nikkei community and is one of the few remaining senior meal programs with a distinct cultural identity in Portland.
Table of Contents:
Creating A Meal Program From Scratch
“What we are after is for those people very close to us…who suffered a lot during their younger days due to prejudice and the evacuation. …As their children we owe it to them to do whatever we can to make the twilight years of their life enjoyable.”
– Tommy Takeuchi
Nikkei Mobilized To Support Their Elders
In the mid-1970’s, many Issei were in their 70s, 80s, and 90s. Leaders of Portland’s Japanese American community, like their counterparts in other cities, saw that aging Issei needed a place where they could socialize, converse in Japanese, and receive care.
Participation in the growing redress movement alerted community leaders to their ability to mobilize the local Nikkei community. These Nisei- and Sansei- generation leaders believed that their elders should also enjoy services funded by the federal Older Americans Act (passed 1965), which included housing, meals, transportation, and home care programs for the nation’s aging population.
The Japanese Ancestral Society and Portland Japanese American Citizens League formed a committee to research senior meal programs throughout the country and to take part in Portland’s Older Americans Act program. Over the course of two years they developed a Needs Survey and secured government funding. Volunteers were enlisted to support daily operations and a location was found.
The city required evidence that older Japanese Americans needed a meal program, a hurdle that other communities did not face. The Needs Survey found that isolation was a problem for elderly Nikkei: some lived alone, some could not drive to visit friends or go shopping, some had trouble cooking for themselves, and 90% spoke Japanese or had difficulty with English.
It took more than a year, but finally the city council approved the “Japanese American Nutrition Program.” After years of planning, Ikoi no Kai opened its doors on Valentine’s Day 1979.
At the time, Portland’s existing senior meal program reported serving 2,200 meals a day. Only six of them were for “Asian minorities.”
“Bill [Sugahiro] did lots of leg work, coordination, and consultation. He did this every step of the way. He did his work quietly and did not seek recognition for his contributions.”
– Janet Kakishita
“Lury Sato was an absolute key person in getting Ikoi no Kai approved for the government money and getting the program off on a good foundation.”
– Bill Sugahiro
In Portland, over 30 Nikkei groups, temples, and churches gathered names and addresses of elderly Japanese. Survey Coordinator Tommy Takeuchi recruited and trained 55 bilingual volunteers. Volunteers interviewed 437 elders in-person.
The Needs Survey found that isolation was a problem for elderly Nikkei: some lived alone, some could not drive to visit friends or go shopping, some had trouble cooking for themselves, and 90% spoke Japanese or had difficulty with English.
By 1980 more than 20 community-run programs in 7 states provided housing, meals, transportation or home care to Issei.
Japanese Terms
Redress
The redress movement began in the 1960’s as an effort to gain an apology, financial compensation and restitution of civil rights for the mass removal and imprisonment of Japanese Americans during WWII.
“What we are after is for those people very close to us…who suffered a lot during their younger days due to prejudice and the evacuation. …As their children we owe it to them to do whatever we can to make the twilight years of their life enjoyable.”
– Tommy Takeuchi
Executive Committee of the Japanese American Nutrition Advisory Board 1976-1979
Not pictured: Peggy Sargent and Woody Kawano
Evolution of A Meal
The program started with American-style meals cooked by Loaves and Fishes (now called Meals on Wheels) and delivered to Ikoi no Kai. A few months later, Ikoi no Kai hired a Japanese chef and began offering home-style Japanese meals two days a week. Those were the most popular days.
“Loaves and Fishes brought…big refrigerated boxes of foods. We would take it out. Yoji [Matsushima] and I would sample it. We would say “It’s too bland.” We used to use…hondashi to make it taste better. Then, we would dish it [onto the plates].”
– Janice Okamoto
Site Managers Pull It All Together
First Site Manager Lury Sato envisioned lunch as a starting point. Keirō meant more than food. Her vision has inspired Ikoi no Kai ever since. Following Lury’s lead, a dozen site managers have directed the program over its 45 year history. Their roles and responsibilities have evolved as community needs changed. A Site Manager oversees kitchen staff and volunteers, manages finances, facilitates health and recreational activities, and serves as a community liaison.
“Not having my grandparents here with me at this time, I feel extremely fortunate to have a whole roomful Monday through Friday at lunchtime! The richness of their stories and expressions is something special to experience.”
– Pam Placourakis Jacobsen, 2nd site manager
Japanese Terms
Hondashi
(Hon-dah-shee)
Japanese powdered soup base.
敬老 Keirō
(Kay-roh)
Respect for Elders.
Caring for the elderly is an essential part of Japanese culture.
It is a way to honor and thank elders for the hard work and sacrifices
that made life easier for their children.
“[In the early 2000s] some of the patrons who ate lunch were younger than most of the ladies who volunteered in the kitchen, so [Site Manager Loen Dozono] recruited some men to be the dishwashers, which was great. Those big pots and pans were really heavy.”
– Betty Jean Harry
Japanese Terms
Issei
(iss-say)
First generation Japanese who immigrated from another country.
Nisei
(ni-say)
Second generation Children of the Issei—
American born citizens of Japanese ancestry.
Sansei
(san-say)
Third generation—Grandchildren of the Issei.
Shin-Issei
(shin-iss-say)
Japanese people and their descendants that immigrated from Japan after WWII.
Nikkei
(nik-kay)
People of Japanese descent whose permanent residence is outside Japan.
Ikoi no Kai
(ee-koi-noh-kai)
A place of rest, though the meaning can be expanded to mean
a place where one can come to breathe, relax, and be at ease.
What Goes Into A Meal?
“I was talking with Noriko Dozono san the other day that we shall continue volunteering as long as possible because coming here and talking to people is both enjoyable and good for us.”
— Ryuko Kakishita
Chefs and Volunteers
Ikoi no Kai would not be able to function without its many volunteers. More than 100 volunteers and 4 chefs prepare and serve 10,000 meals a year. The chefs are hired for their knowledge of Japanese foodways. Their home-style Japanese and Asian-inspired lunches change with the seasons and the chef’s creativity.
“On Thursdays, we are a tight-knit team and I enjoy their company. I recruited some of them from the tennis group and we know each other well.”
– Noriko Dozono (Noriko Dozono immigrated to the US in 1966. She has been a volunteer for 20 years. She is now 75 years old.)
A Foraging Tradition
Traditionally, Nikkei families foraged food for their own tables and to share with family and friends. Generous donors bring a lot of seasonal specialties to Ikoi no Kai’s kitchen, enriching what is offered on the menu. Razor clams and crabs are harvested from the sea. Salmon is caught by skilled fishermen. Every fall foragers donate seasonal delicacies such as rare matsutake mushrooms and juicy kaki (Japanese persimmons).
Food Purveyors
Throughout the years, local businesses have shown their support for the Ikoi no Kai program by donating a variety of products. Some donations come from small, family-owned firms, others come from larger retailers. Donations of locally-produced ingredients contribute to the Japanese home-style flavors that bring diners back time and again.
Local Farmers
Local fruit and vegetable growers carry Nikkei farming traditions into the Ikoi no Kai kitchen. Fresh produce is a tasty reminder of gardens and farms both past and present. Like other donors, local farmers are part of a web of community support that sustains the lunch program. Cucumbers, eggplant, corn, strawberries and tomatoes are some of the local crops donated to Ikoi no Kai.
“This summer we have been fortunate to receive produce from the farms and gardens of Pam and Mike Oja, Harry and Betty Nakamura, and Jim and Amy Tsugawa. That not only helps our bottom line but makes for unmatchable quality of taste and health.”
– Noriko Dozono
Itadakimasu
Together with volunteers, the chefs prepare a variety of delicious food. Influenced by fan favorites and childhood cravings, the menus are determined by the chefs. Moritsuke (symbolism, attention to aesthetics, and presentation) is carried into the plating of the meal at Ikoi no Kai.
In summer, there are a lot of vegetable donations, This summer we have been fortunate to receive produce from the farms and gardens of Pam and Mike Oja, Harry and Betty Nakamura, and Jim and Amy Tsugawa. That not only helps our bottom line but makes for unmatchable quality of taste and health.
– Site manager report, September 2008
Japanese Terms
Itadakimasu
(ee-tah-dah-kee-mahs)
“I humbly receive this.” Said individually before each meal.
Moritsuke
(mo-ree-tsoo-keh)
Japanese art of presenting food.
A Time Of Transition
“We lost support from Multnomah County… funding went away and we said, ‘Ikoi no Kai needs to look at what it wants to do.”
– Sharon Takahashi
We had to make a choice… merge or go independent?
After nearly 30 years of operation, in 2008, public funding for Ikoi no Kai ended. Due to population changes, the government decided to fund a pan- Asian meal program instead of a Japanese-specific meal program.
Ikoi no Kai leaders, staff, volunteers, and the Japanese Ancestral Society studied and debated their options: either join the new pan- Asian program or try to make it on their own. There were challenges with both. If they merged, would the cultural aspects be diluted? If they went on their own, would they be able to continue without public funds? These questions weighed on and divided the community.
In 2010, Ikoi no Kai decided to stay open as a self-funded, Japanese senior lunch program. Ikoi no Kai was able to connect to Japanese culture in new ways. Going independent created challenges and opportunities.
What kind of food would they serve?
To save money and attract more patrons, Ikoi no Kai stopped buying Loaves and Fishes’ American meals and switched to making Japanese and Asian-inspired meals in the Ikoi no Kai kitchen.
Would they have enough money?
Large grants were important at first. Then, Ikoi no Kai turned to the Nikkei community, whose support keeps the program going. The Japanese tradition of Koden is an important part of that support.
“We started an “ask a friend” campaign to see if we could find donors who would contribute dollars to keep our doors open. The response…was heartwarming. Our donations range from those who refuse change when paying for their meals to $5000 given in honor of ‘mom.’ Others gave in thanksgiving for surgery recovery, birthday celebrations, family gatherings, and whatever. To all, we are grateful.”
– Sharon Takahashi, JACL Newsletter, Sept. 2011
“There was a division…. Some people went to Clark Center [the pan-Asian program]. Some people stayed at Ikoi no Kai. A few of us went to both.”
– Janice Okamoto
Japanese Terms
Koden
(koh-den)
A gift in memory of a deceased person.
These gifts recognize the joy that Ikoi no Kai gave to a loved one,
and a desire that the program will be there for others.
Building Community
When the COVID pandemic forced Ikoi no Kai to close for over a year, some of the regular guests organized weekly exercise and singalong gatherings in nearby Colonel Summers Park.
In earlier years community activities included Japanese and English classes, financial literacy and health talks, movies, group outings, flu vaccines, and even a dedicated Ikoi no Kai bus.
Food Was Only The Beginning
While a delicious meal is the focal point, Ikoi no Kai is also a place to meet up with friends, play games, make music, share a craft or learn a new skill. Guests’ health and welfare are top of mind as well, with opportunities for light exercise and blood pressure checks.
A large amount of work goes into the daily operations of Ikoi no Kai, with much of it carried out by the many volunteers who dedicate their time and energy to the program. The community contributes in a multitude of ways, from Koden to new tables, computer services to bingo prizes, holiday turkeys to floral centerpieces. Every act of kindness or care is appreciated.
“It’s the sense of just having this little community where you understand each other, support each other, help each other, and keep the culture and history of the Asian community going.”
– Joyce Kikkawa
“There is a feeling of reciprocity and gratitude that permeates Ikoi no Kai. As the volunteers put down each plate, the patrons thanked them. Hugs and greetings are exchanged, and the patrons talk about how lucky they are to come here, be in community and eat wonderful food.”
– Metro article October 16, 2023
“My family’s over in Hawaii. So, it’s a place to feel like you’re with family. I feel really at home.”
– Reverend Essei Ikenaga, Nichiren Buddhist Temple
Changing With The Times
“How do we keep involving the younger generations? And that generation keeps changing. At a time when there’s so much intermarriage and so much [moving around].”
– Janet Kakishita
Sustaining And Growing Community
Over time, the Issei generation passed on. By 2000, Nisei, Sansei, and shin-Issei (new immigrants) made up the majority of Ikoi no Kai’s guests and volunteers. They are joined by non-Japanese friends and newcomers. With each generation, the community’s interests and needs change. Today, Ikoi no Kai is reaching out in new ways to the most senior members of the community and to younger generations.
The Bento Program
The Bento Program was created to bring Ikoi no Kai’s delicious homestyle Japanese meals to the growing population of those who could no longer come to Ikoi no Kai. It serves homebound seniors and anyone over 98 years old. This program is self-supported by the sale of greeting cards made by volunteers, donations, and monthly Bento Sponsorships. Volunteers who deliver bentos often visit and eat bento with recipients, bring extra treats, do small household tasks, or check up on non-bento days, continuing the community experience. Art affixed to the bento boxes and seasonal goodie bags add a special touch to these special deliveries.
When the COVID pandemic forced Ikoi no Kai to close for over a year, some of the regular guests organized weekly exercise and singalong gatherings in nearby Colonel Summers Park.
“Bento is our thank you, appreciation and acknowledgement of all that our parents’ and grandparents’ generations have done to pave the way for our generation and future generations.”
– Janet Kakishita
Japanese Terms
Bento
(ben-toh)
A Japanese-style boxed lunch.
Bento Backstory
Sharon Ogata, long-time Ikoi no Kai chef, had a dream. She wanted to provide Japanese-style meals to homebound seniors. In 2011 she teamed up with Janet Kakishita, Loen Dozono, and Jere Okada to create this vision. Sharon secured a $500 donation to get started, Janet took on operations, Loen brought the program into Ikoi no Kai, Jere had the idea of making Asian-inspired note cards to raise funds. They began by recruiting card makers and monthly volunteers from the Ohana Lunch Bunch.
“The bentos are always lovely, so opening the bento is such fun. Their eyes sparkle and you can feel the excitement! … One of the ladies took a bite of rice, looked up with a smile and said: ‘now that’s rice!’ One of the ladies who doesn’t speak very much and has cognitive problems got into a conversation about sunomono [Japanese pickles] and how she used to make it! She [usually] speaks 2 words during lunch, and we could have written a book.”
– Tomiko Takeuchi, founder of Bento Buddies at Holladay Park Plaza
What Will The Next Generation Bring?
Over time, the Issei generation passed on. By 2000, Nisei, Sansei, and shin-Issei (new immigrants) made up the majority of Ikoi no Kai’s guests and volunteers. They are joined by non-Japanese friends and newcomers. With each generation, the community’s interests and needs change. Today, Ikoi no Kai is reaching out in new ways to the most senior members of the community and to younger generations. Today’s Nikkei are more diverse than their elders. Ikoi no Kai is finding new ways to connect and welcome them in: through social media and a youtube channel, an on-site Japanese vegetable garden, opening volunteer opportunities, and hosting Saturday events – all with its signature hospitality and delicious food.
“It’s turned out to be more than just a hot lunch program. It always has been.”
– Ida Sugahiro
Welcome to Ikoi no Kai
Ikoi no Kai envisions a future where they sustain Japanese heritage and culture while serving meals that care for each generation of the Nikkei community, and welcoming new generations of guests and volunteers. Lunch is open to the public with a nominal donation request (pay what you will) to ensure that all people feel welcome. For those 100 years old or older, lunch is free.
Japanese Terms
Okaerinasai
(Oh-ka-eh-ri-nah-sai)
Welcome Home.
This phrase is painted on Ikoi no Kai’s front door.
In Japanese this is an informal way to welcome people into your home.
